Only weeks ago the Kincade Fire tore through the Alexander Valley, putting residents and wineries on edge as firefighters and first responders heroically battled the ominous flames. Luckily no lives were lost in the massive fire, but several homes and winery structures were destroyed. More than that, the lives and livelihood of those impacted suffered. If you sat at home watching the news (or listening to it from an Eton emergency radio or from your car if you - like we - lost power in the PG&E public safety power shutoff), you felt helpless and wished you could do something.

Other than voting for politicians who will take action to address Climate Change, donating to Corazón Healdsburg or other relief efforts, and reducing your own carbon footprint, you can visit and purchase wines and products made in the Alexander Valley and other areas harmed by natural disasters. Remember it was only two years ago that other parts of Sonoma and Napa were hit hard by the Tubbs and Nuns fires. Each time a disaster hits the wine region, the community rallies together and exemplifies #SonomaStrong. And while the fires may devastate certain properties, the overwhelming majority remain untouched by the flames. My husband and I visited the Alexander Valley November 9 - just a few days after firefighters proclaimed the Kincade Fire 100% contained. Although that fire burned over 75,000 acres and destroyed 374 buildings (over half of which were homes), the vast majority of the valley survived and welcomed visitors back with clear blue skies and rolling hills covered in vibrantly colored autumn leaves. I urge you to plan your visit to the Alexander Valley and buy wines from the region.

Robert Young Estate Winery on November 9, 2019 - just days after the Kincade Fire

The Alexander Valley stretches along the northeastern edge of Sonoma County outside the towns of Healdsburg and Geyserville, approximately 90 minutes north of San Francisco. The warm Mediterranean climate of this AVA produces full bodied but softly balanced Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varietals. With more than 425 wineries in Sonoma County - 42 of which are in the Alexander Valley, planning a trip can feel overwhelming. That’s why I recommend developing a strategy and game plan based on your personal preferences — whenever and wherever you plan to go wine tasting. Do your research using local online tools like Wine Road, The Press, and Woman Owned Wineries. Personally, I seek out small, family owned wineries - ideally with a woman winemaker, organic or sustainable farming practices, and great wines that are a good value (and by that I mean a quality to price ratio tailored to one’s own subjective palate and budget). These are a few of my personal Alexander Valley favorites.

Where to Taste

In the Vineyards with Stunning Views

Hanna Winery

Hanna sits perched on a hilltop surrounded by vineyards in the central Alexander Valley. Winery president Christine Hanna leads the operations with vineyards and tasting rooms in both the Alexander Valley and Russian River. Hanna produces outstanding Bordeaux and Burgundy varietals in each location, respectively. But you can taste all the wines in each tasting room and even take home a copy of Ms. Hanna’s own cookbook, The Winemaker Cooks, published by Chronicle Books in 2010. While known for their Sauvignon Blanc, I particularly enjoy the Provençal style rosé of Pinot Noir and the Chardonnay. The tasting room offers a relaxed, casual experience with sweeping views of the valley. Reservations are not required but book ahead if you want to reserve a wine and cheese pairing on the veranda or a picnic under the Oak Tree. Visit https://www.hannawinery.com.

Jordan

At this family-owned estate, newly appointed head winemaker Maggie Kruse carries on the tradition of making world class Chardonnay in the Burgundian style (leaner, crisp and more acidic than many of the big, buttery and heavily Oakes Chardonnays for which California has become infamous) and Cabernet Sauvignon. A certified sustainable winery, Jordan preserves over three quarters of its beautiful sprawling estate to the natural habitat. Jordan offers tours of the winery and the estate with wine and food pairings. Plan ahead since reservations are required for tours and tastings. Visit https://www.jordanwinery.com.

Robert Young Estate Winery

Robert Young Estate Winery produces elegantly balanced and high quality Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and other Bordeaux varietals. This family owned and operated estate has six generations in the family business, passed down from namesake Robert Young (1919 -2009) who converted his family’s prune ranch to a winery and was the first vintners to plant Cabernet Sauvignon in the Alexander Valley in 1963. His scions founded Robert Young Estate Winery in 1997 and operate the winery today. You’ll often find fifth and sixth generations, Robert, Jr. pouring wines in the tasting room and Rachel in the cellar and on social media. At the plentiful member events, the family members greet guests, drive them in a tractor-pulled trolley and causally engage guests in discussions of the wines. My husband and I joined the Robert Young wine club over a decade ago when tastings were hosted at a small counter inside the roadside white barn. That was long before the beautiful new website and hilltop Scion House tasting room that opened in the back half of 2018. It elevates the tasting experience with the best views I’ve seen of the Alexander Valley yet still maintains the winery’s warm hospitality. It’s a required stop for any visit to the area. Thanks to quick action by Robert, Jr. and his father, Fred, to stamp out a pre-dawn brush fire on their property and the valiant efforts of the firefighters to beat back the encroaching Kincade fire, the beautiful estate remains. Read about their efforts and see just how close the fire came here. Open daily 10 am - 4:30 pm. Visit https://www.ryew.com

Silver Oak

Silver Oak needs no introduction. You’ve seen it offered on wine lists all across the country and may have received a bottle or two as a gift in your lifetime. It’s a brand that exudes luxury. And the Alexander Valley tasting room aptly displays that brand image. Personally I prefer the velvety Cabernet Sauvignons of Robert Young to the heavily oaked and grippy tannins of Silver Oak, but these wines are loved by many and can age very well if you have the patience. Even if you don’t want to taste the wine, I recommend a visit to Silver Oak’s LEED-certified tasting room for the architectural beauty and outstanding gift shop (more than just Silver Oak logo wear, they offered lovely wine totes, cookbooks, ceramic pieces, and jewelry). You can also charge your electric vehicle on their plentiful charging stations. Open daily until 5 pm. Visit https://www.silveroak.com/visit-us/alexander-valley/

Soda Rock Winery

Unlike the other wineries mentioned here, Soda Rock Winery failed to escape the wrath of the Kincade Fire, which took its main winery structure and its 2019 vintage. But just a few feet away, the old wooden barn survived and now hosts wine tastings. We visited Soda Rock for a tasting on November 9, when their road sign sign proclaimed “Recovery Begins! Taste Today.” Over the celebratory music played by a live band, wine club members and the public tasted Soda Rock wines paired with pulled pork sliders and sinful chocolate brownies. We walked away with six bottles of the 2015 Lord Snort — a silky blend of Cabernet Sauvignons (50%) and Merlot (40%) — and hearts full of admiration for the resilient spirit of the winery team and the community that flocked there to support them. Visit Soda Rock daily from 11 am to 4 pm or buy wines on-line at http://sodarockwinery.com.

The Lord Snort sculpture survived the Kincade fire, but the main winery structure, pictured behind it, did not - November 9, 2019

Soda Rock Winery’s barn now hosts tastings after the main winery burned down in the Kincade Fire - pictured November 9, 2019

The Soda Rock Winery Barn survived the Kincade fire and now hosts tastings during their recovery - November 9, 2019

Tasting Rooms in Town

Healdsburg: While you’re in the Alexander Valley, you’re bound to visit the idyllic town of Healdsburg. As you stroll the charming town plaza, I recommend you visit these tasting rooms.

Lioco is a stylish newcomer to downtown Healdsburg offering restrained California Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Carignan. They also serve the most delicious gluten free crackers. The tasting room feels like a cocktail lounge with bright pops of yellow upholstered mid century chairs walk-ins - make this your stop before dinner on the square. Reservations are not required. Open daily from 12 -7 pm. Visit https://www.liocowine.com.
Portalupi located just one block from the Healdsburg Square is worth a stop on your journey. Portalupi produces Italian style wines by husband and wife owners and winemakers, Tim Borges and Jane Portalupi, sourcing grapes from California vineyards in Carneros, Russian River, and the Sierra Foothills. My favorites include the Barbera and Vaso di Marina (a red wine blend sold in a 1 liter milk bottle inspired by Jane’s grandmother Marina). Open daily from 11 - 6 daily ( until 7 pm on Saturdays and Sundays). Walk-ins welcomed. Visit https://portalupiwine.com.

Geyserville: The town of Geyserville feels like it’s straight out of the Wild West with a short block of shops, restaurants, and tasting rooms. My favorite is Mercury. If nothing else, Mercury makes for a fun stop at the end of the day while you wait for your table at Diavola Pizzeria next door. Listen to a vinyl LP in the convivial tasting room where you’ll likely encounter the winemaker-owner, Brad, his brother, Grady, and occasionally the winery dog, Freddie [Mercury] and be treated to warm hospitality and fabulous wines. My favorites are the Messenger (Cabernet Sauvignon blend) and Mercurio (100% Tempranillo blended solara style and bursting with notes of fig and cherry). Open daily from 12 - 5 pm. Visit http://www.mercurywine.com.

Where to Eat

Breakfast

The Parish Cafe serves soul-satisfying New Orleans fare in a charming cafe in downtown Healdsburg. Don’t miss the chicory coffee and beignets.
Flying Goat Coffee roasts mighty fine coffee and serves espresso drinks to kick off your day of tasting. Grab a pastry there or at the Downtown Bakery on the next block.

Carnitas and Pollo Tacos from Los Plebes Taco Truck

Lunch

Los Plebes is a taco truck that parks right off Highway 101 at the Lytton Springs exit. They make a killer carnitas taco you scarf down while standing up hunched over the hood of your car. At only $2 per taco, you can save money on lunch to put toward procuring more Alexander Valley wines. Next time I’m heading there for a breakfast of chorizo and eggs, since they are open 10 am - 4:30 daily.
Jimtown Store is in the heart of the Alexander Valley and open for breakfast and lunch. Eat outside on their covered patio or inside the charming store where you can browse the culinary provisions, candy selections, and children’s toys while you wait for your order. Pro tip: the housemade tortilla chips are out of this world.
Oakville Grocery has an outpost on the Healdsburg Square where you can grab breakfast or picnic lunch supplies to take on your wine tasting journey and find a scenic spot to stop between tastings.

Dinner and Drinks

Diavola Pizzeria & Salumeria makes some of the very best pizza in California using their house-cured salted pork parts in a wood-burning oven and outstanding salads and pastas from locally sourced and sustainable farms and ranches. It’s located in downtown Geyserville and should not be missed. Order the Boscailo or Inferno pizza and add some of the housemade sausage. Don't forget to drizzle it with the Calabrian Chili oil provided on each table.
Bravas serves Spanish cuisine in a convivial atmosphere just off the Healdsburg Plaza. Sit outside in the charming, shaded backyard where, if you’re lucky, you’ll witness paella being made to order over an open-flame. Try a flight of dry Sherry wines to pair with your Croquetas or Tortilla Española.
Duke’s serves craft cocktails and tasty bar snacks on the Healdsburg Square. For the full Op-Edible experience, order the Mr. Brownstone (Alley 6 Rye, Toasted Cedar Bourbon, Alessio Chinato Vermouth + Duke's Burdock Bitters) and the corn dog pops served with stadium mustard.
Geyserville Gun Club next to Diavola makes a great spot to head for a cocktail after dinner. I always crave hard alcohol after a day of tasting. Order the Oldfellows Manhattan on tap - a brilliant way to expedite service with a batched and chilled cocktail. They also offer seafood crudos and Latin and Asian Streetfood menu items.

Side entrance to the back patio of Bravas

The old oak tree guards the vines at Robert Young Estate Winery

Why do you travel? Wait, let me qualify that question. Why do you travel for fun? Not traveling to visit your family across the country - which often entails paying premium airfare and fighting snow storms and flight delays at the holidays. Not traveling for business when your schedule is filled with back to back meetings followed by obligatory dinners at restaurants selected to please your colleagues with less adventurous palates. I mean why do you travel when you are traveling for fun - not duty? As with any endeavor, it’s important to think with the end in mind: what do you want to get out of your trip? Decide and then plan accordingly.

Me? I travel for adventure and exploration: opening my eyes and mind to a new culture, language, glimpsing beautiful scenery, and most of all, experimenting with new food and wine to understand the people and place of my destination. And, of course, I want to capture all these things in photographs to trigger memories of them when I return home and for years to come. My stated reasons for travel make traveling alone ideal, generally, but specifically on my recent trip to La Rioja when I had the added goal of escaping the comforts of home and trying to envision my future. I suppose I had the same goals when I was 21 and traveling alone to Paris after a study abroad program at Oxford - traveling for the romance of it and thinking of who I wanted to become. But then I felt a little lonely, afraid to dine at a restaurant on my own or go out alone at night; at age 21, I wished I had someone with me - preferably the not yet discovered, romantic love of my life (I know, I know. Cue the eye rolling). At that time there was a sense of yearning for someone or something to “complete me.”

Now at the ripe age of 48, I am wise enough to know that, if we’re doing it right, we are never complete and yet, at once, fully complete - depending whether you’re a glass half full or half empty person, I suppose. We are continually transforming. What I was missing at the age of 21 was not someone or some great job or purpose. I was missing confidence in myself and my own self-reliance … and, sure, the financial means to enjoy a higher standard of accommodations and restaurants. Now I relish quiet time alone - whether it’s a peaceful hour in the morning between feeding the dog and engaging with the rest of humanity (i.e. my husband, colleagues, or The New York Times) — or, in this case, three weeks of solo travel in Spain and Portugal to quiet my mind and plot my next course.

What’s So Great about Traveling Alone?

When you travel alone, you are your own pilot, navigator, and DJ. That also means you can pull the car over for a photograph any time you want without a groan of impatience from your companion. I vividly recall the words of a friend some twenty years ago when I squatted down on a sandy beach in Maui for the umteenth time; she snipped: “Oh God. Not another f@#!-ing sunset photo!”

Essentially when you travel alone, you can do anything you want, whenever you want. Without compromise or judgment. Freedom. Adventure. The open road. It calls you and lets you design your trip, including your destinations, pit stops, soundtrack, schedule - or lack thereof, and dining establishments. Rioja awaited, and when I arrived, it greeted me with a beautiful sunset (pictured in the images above) as if to say, “you’ve come to the right place.”

Views from outside of Laguardia in Rioja Alavesa - from a dusty, dirt road

During my visit to La Rioja in September 2018, I relished following my intuition to turn down a dusty road to find a beautiful vineyard valley cradled by a rocky hillside and framed to the north by the mountains separating Rioja from the Basque Country (pictured above) or stumble onto a twelfth century monument at magic hour with not another soul in sight (Hermitage of Santa Maria de La Piscina, pictured below). I slammed on the brakes and pulled over more times than I can count - leaving the car door ajar with the engine still running, while I ventured into the macaron-like soil to see the vineyards from a new angle; inspect the grapes up close and reevaluate my already loose plans for the remainder of the day. You see, everything is negotiable when you travel alone.

Since I had no one else to please but myself, I became obsessed with these guardaviñas - curious looking stone structures dotting the vineyard landscapes. These guardaviñas are unique to the region - built as shelter for the vineyard workers. It would be a dream to return and catalogue the location and history of each of these interesting relics. But for now, just marvel at them for a moment.

My first guardaviña spotting outside the town of Ábalos

This guardaviña was built into the hillside but lost its roof over time

This charming guardaviña has a sunlight (or air vent)

Traveling in Rioja provides ample opportunities for scenic stops. I took as many as possible in my four days there. But one need not travel half way around the world to experience the adventures of solo travel. As wisely stated in “Awakening the Buddha Within,” by Lama Surya Das:

“One need not travel to distant lands, seek exotic mystical experiences, master esoteric mantras and treatises, or cultivate extroaordinary states of mind in order to experience a radical change of heart and inner transformation. Spiritually speaking, everything that one wants, aspires to, and needs is ever-present, accessible here and now— for those with eyes to see it. It’s the old adage all over again: You don’t need to see different things, but rather to see things differently.”

My rental car on one of many back road stops for a photo opp

If You Can’t Take a Solo Vacation - Take a Solo Break. You Deserve It.

There is beauty all around us. We often inhabit the world with our blinders on: falling into a routine, rushing from one obligation to another, taking conference calls on our commute, multitasking to take advantage of every waking moment, yet not stopping to be present in the moment. Sure, travel enables an escape from our daily routines and forces us to break those patterns. But with a little mindfulness, we can experience our daily lives in a whole new way. One can seek to find adventure in the seemingly mundane.

The subject of one of said backroad photo opp stops

Try something new. Take a different route on your daily commute, treat yourself to a lunch by yourself in a fancy restaurant you always wanted to try, venture to a different part of town or city for a new perspective and experience. Stop along the way to check out anything that piques your curiousity. And if you can, schedule yourself to have a full day of exploration on your own: get in the car and drive without any agenda (or take public transportation to a new part of town). Take a hike. Sit on a park bench and just notice everything around. See how many discoveries big or small you can find along the way. Maybe you’ll notice the scent of Eucalyptus trees, freshly cut grass, or freshly baked bread. Follow the scent and see where it leads. And if you find that freshly baked bread, buy it and enjoy it - ideally smothered in salted butter and with a glass of wine. But this is important: when you venture out, you must turn off the news and social media. Don’t let anyone else spoil your day or influence your thinking. Let your own curiousity and pleasures propel you from one moment to the next. Then see how happy and relaxed you feel.

Taking the scenic route on a morning commute (Nov. 2017 - Palomares Road, Castro Valley CA)

Wait - What About the Wine?

You may be wondering whether I did any wine tasting while I was in La Rioja. You bet I did. The next post will dive deeply into my visits to Bodegas Muga, Marques de Murrieta, Marques de Riscal, Roda, R. Lopez de Herredia (Vina Tondonia), and Artadi. There I found many discoveries along the way.

Sip, Savor & Salute the Alexander Valley